I tried many outdoports for the first time in my twenties and once I found skiing I was sure no other activity was going to top my love of skiing. Then I tried sport climbing. I largely contribute my love of mountain climbing to being able to do it in my backyard - Bow Valley, Squamish and other wonders of Western Canada.
I owe a huge thanks to two close friends that are avid climbers and teachers that took the time to show both my spouse and I the ropes to sport climbing. If you haven’t climbed before (or only done inside gym climbing) I highly recommend taking a course outside or going with very experienced friends. Our first experience was at Spillimacheen BC (aka Spilli). Spilli is along highway 95 between Radium and Golden British Columbia. I have no idea how many people live there but it's small. Brisco is a close community and the Bricso General Store is a must stop, it's on highway 95 and it has everything you can need - fireworks, drinks, snacks, you name it they got it!
Directions - Take West Side Rd across the train tracks (west) off Highway 95, follow the dirt road until you hit a clearing on the right which has a trail sign and likely a few cars. This is about a 20 minute drive. The second cragg parking lot is just down the road and also on the right.
The rock is limestone with about 60 routes and everything from 5.6 - 5.12. The cragg is about a 15 minute walk from where you park. You can camp free around this area thanks to BC laws so be respectful (forestry people drop by to check fires). These climbs have been a favorite of mine due to the quiet atmosphere and open space to let the dogs run.
It was at Spilli I first learned the figure 8 knot, how to belay and the language (climbing, climb on, take, got, etc). I was terrified to take my few steps off the ground and trust the rope was going to hold (yes I’ve done gym climbing but the exposure outside made it feel so different!). No reason for this fear but the unknown feeling of a new activity. That first year climbing I observed, asked questions and got in some practice. We did sport climbs in around Spilli, Squamish, BC and Barrier in Kananaskis, AB. At the end of the season I was extremely excited about this new sport but I felt unsatisfied that I never made the opportunity to lead climb or clean a route and repel.
In the next season and we bought our own rope, draws and started to lead and repel (after being walked through by our friends and practiced). Being able to climb with my partner and leave in the evenings after work and drive to Kananaskis has opened a whole new window of climbing opportunities. Through hiking, mountain biking and skiing I feel privileged to live where I do and have access to the mountains. I heard that the Bow Valley has spectacular climbing, I tried it and WOW it’s awesome!
I have been able to explore areas I use to hike with sport climbing including Cougar Canyon, Heart Mountain, and Grassi (all in Alberta Canada). It has been a fun, exciting and beautiful to see the landscape in a different way from a different view point.
Having access to these mountains is a blessing. I recommend people looking into outdoor climbing courses to see if it's a sport for them. It's a great work out, makes you think and is incredibly addictive. As my love for climbing grows I'll know another activity can creep in at any time and join my heart.
One of my favorite resource: Bow Valley Sport Book
